Hand Rearing Joeys

[Marie]

It is important that you all know how to raise a joey if mum either dies or rejects them. You should be prepared and ready to intervene if the worst happens and for whatever reason mum cannot rear him/her herself.

I just want to say at this point - joeys should not be hand reared without a good reason, it is unethical to take a healthy joey away from a healthy mum just to make money.

So, how will I know if I need to hand rear or supplement the joey?
A rejected joey will usually be thrown out of the nest, you'll find them either clinging to the side of the cage but more likely on the floor of the cage. Always put them back in the nest (if they've NOT been attacked) as it is possible they could have fallen out, and keep an eye on them. If the mother expresses no interest or starts making squabbling noises at it, then you need decide to pull or not to pull ...

First things first, check the hydration level of the baby, you can do this by pinching the skin at the back of the neck, it should spring back straightaway, if it takes a second or two the baby is slightly dehydrated, you should then offer 0.2ml of water. If the baby is severely dehydrated seek veterinary advice. Also check if the baby is warm, if it is cold the chances are it has been there for a while.  You will need to warm the joey immediately, try placing him/her in a secure place next to your skin, it is important to warm both top and bottom of the joey else they will not be able to digest their milk.

If you decide to pull the baby it is very hard work.

A baby may need supplementing if mum is on her own, or is ill.

What will I need?

You will need puppy milk such as Lactol; Wombaroo opossum milk replacer is of course the best option as it is made specifically for marsupials but is not offered for sale in the UK.

A large Geo to create a moist but warm environment, a 5L Really Useful Box can be used but small holes should be drilled in to the lid to allow for ventilation.  Line the bottom with a towel and a damp cloth in one corner (for humidity) - do NOT use a bowl of water.  

A small heat pad to go under the geo - this should only be half the size of the Geo for a warm side and a cool side. If you place the heat box on top of the heat mat so the back half of the tub is heated and the front is cooler this will allow you to place the damp cloth on the mat to create the humidity.  The heat mat should be attached to a thermostat and should be set to around 30°C.  Make sure you put a thermometer inside the box as thermostats are notoriously inaccurate.  Make sure you check the temperature regularly.  

Small syringes without the needle.

A couple of pouches, one at each end of the geo

Cotton buds

Some people will use the geo to keep the joey in all day and all night, I've had success with the joey in a pouch around my neck under my clothes so s/he can absorb body heat and bond with you at the same time, the geo method is better I think if you have to hand rear 2 or 3 joeys. It is also advisable to put the joey/s in the geo overnight.

Mix the puppy milk or Wombaroo as per the instructions on the pack which is usually 1 milk powder to 4 boiled water, BUT YOU MUST CHECK THE PACKAGING TO BE SURE.

Make sure the mixture is warm on the inside of your wrist, as you would do for a human baby. The feeding of the joey is the tricky bit, firstly you must make sure the joey is warm, if s/he is cold she won't be able to digest the meal. Hold the joey securely but not too tightly in an upright position, wrapping him/her in a towel helps as they are quite squirmy.  Most joeys will lick a drop off the end of the syringe and chew for more, but if not, you may need to put a drop on the lips, but some will refuse to eat in which case you will need a lot of patience to persevere, it may even be necessary to use a small catheter tube.

Be sure to feed the joey slowly, and do not overfeed as this can kill him. If the joey appears bloated skip a meal. A new joey will eat only tiny amounts and it can take up to an hour to feed them, but that will reduce with practice.

Joeys emerge from mums pouch at around 60 days.  It's important not to use weight as an indication of age, this should be based on measurements of the leg and head length.  A new oop joey will need feeding on demand or every 2-3 hours.  It is important however to weigh the joey to make sure s/he is gaining weight.

At 60 days of age (just OOP), the head should measure about 23mm and the leg 20mm, they should be fed around 3ml per day at intervals or around 2 hours day and night.

At 70 days of age (10 days OOP, eyes open or very near) the head should measure 26mm and the leg 24mm, they should be fed around 4ml per day at intervals of 2 hours day and night

At 80 days of age (20 days OOP) the head and the leg should measure 29mm, they should be fed around 6ml per day at intervals of 2 1/2  hours day and night .

At 90 days of age (30 days OOP) the head should measure 32mm and the leg 35mm, they should be fed around 7ml per day at intervals of 3 - 4  hours day and night.

At 100 days of age (40 days OOP) (emerging from the nest) the head should measure 35mm, they should be fed around 8ml per day at intervals of 3 - 4  hours day and night.

At around 50 days OOP (emerging from the nest) they should be starting to take adult food, feed them around 4ml of milk and also offer then a bowl of fruit mush.  The tails should be starting to bush out now.

(All measurements are approximate, the sex of the joey will affect the measurements)  The amount per day is a maxium figure.  At around 40 days OOP you should begin to substitute a meal or two with a fruit mush or fruity babyfood but still including the Wombaroo in the diet, joeys CAN and sometimes will nurse for the whole 2 months.

Do not overfeed the joey as it will cause diarrhea and possibly kill the joey.

After feeding (at least twice a day) you will need to toilet the baby, so use a warm, dampened cotton bud and gently rub the area between the base of the tail and the cloaca to stimulate the joey's bowel. Remember a baby poo will not be like an adult poo - it's main diet is milk!!

It's important to remember to progress at the joey's pace, if he's not ready for soft fruit you'll know!! Also please bear in mind this guide isn't written in stone, each joey is different and will progress at a different rate.

To supplement feed a joey, follow the above instructions (except baby should stay with parents), but feed every four hours, this just allows mum to have a rest, it's not necessary in most cases, but if mum isn't well she may need a little help. While feeding you should check the joey is warm and hydrated (by pinching the skin gently), and check for signs that he is being rejected like little nips on the body. Before putting baby back into the nest with mum and dad wipe the baby with a bit of the nest bedding to ensure the family scent is still present. When baby is back in with mum and dad, just watch to make sure they are doing everything they should, such as cleaning and toileting the baby.



© Shropshire Exotics 01/01/07

[Edwin Margulies]

Wow, this is really an excellent article! Three small contribuitions you may appreciate:

You can touch the warm, dampt cotton swap directly on the cloaca to stimulate voiding. It will not hurt them and the change in temp stimulates the action. The adults stimulate the area directly so we can take a hint from them.

You can *see* the bulge in the belly when they have had enough to eat. It is tangible and obvious even by simply rubbing your thumb over the belly. It is good guidance to not overfeed them, but this is a good way of knowing when they have had enough. Sometimes measuring the amount offered is not enough because some is lost to dribble, etc.

You can cup your hand with milk replacer in it and allow them to "suck" it out of your hand or a baby spoon if the catheter is too hard to use. Joeys do know how to suck and this method may be easier for some.

Thanks for the great article!